Washington: Olympic NP – Sol Duc–High Divide Loop
by Eli Boschetto

Big Trees
Big Trees
The best thing about loop trails is that you don't have to see the same thing twice. There's things to be said about the in-and-outs, as the opposite perspective can have it's own merits, but loops allow you to spend all your time relishing every new view around every next corner. So it is with the 25-mile circuit in Olympic's Sol Duc and High Divide area. Your senses are constantly bombarded with incredible vistas, starting in lush coastal rainforest, climbing to pristine mountain lakes, and topping out on high alpine ridges, all within a few hours hike of each other. After several days, you're sure to emerge giddy with scenic sensory overload.

For a counter-clockwise loop (which is described here), there are two options for starting. The first is to park at the Sol Duc Hot Springs resort and immediately begin on the Mink Lake trail. The alternate is to park at the end of the road, 2.5 miles ahead, and hike the road back to begin at the Mink Lake trailhead. It all depends on when you're able to pick up your permit, and how you choose to start and finish. Either way, make sure you've obtained your backcountry permit, and identified your intended camping locations - the rangers are diligent to check.


Deer Lake
Deer Lake
Starting at the Mink Lake trailhead, you'll immediately begin up a moderate slope through fir and cedar forest. If hiking in late summer, bring an appetite for fresh wild blueberries, as they're everywhere, and enjoy munching as you hike. There are no views as you climb for the ridge, but take time to notice the colorful lichens and fungus clinging to the trees. Mink Lake makes a nice spot for a break after 2.5 miles. There's campsites available near the south shore, and a small backcountry shelter with a few bunks and a large fire pit. Following Mink Lake, the trail continues climbing for another 1.8 miles to the junction with the Bogachiel trail. Still no views, but you'll pass through some small, pretty meadows - watch for deer. At the junction, bear left for Deer Lake along the Low Divide. This section of the divide ridge is pretty heavily forested, so views are scarce. Note that the weather is often funneled up the Bogachiel Valley from the coast and bombards this section with moisture, so bring your rain gear. Continue through misty forest, occasional small meadows, and past a few beaver ponds for 2.6 miles, then a long, mile-long descent to Deer Lake for the first night's camp. Before crossing the boardwalk at the head of the lake, look to see if site #10 is available, offering primo views across Deer Lake; if not, look for sites on either side of the lake. Drop your gear and pick some blueberries for tomorrow's breakfast.


Lunch Lake
Lunch Lake
The next morning, pack up and begin climbing out of the Deer Lake basin, munching on your breakfast blueberries. The trail passes a couple of lakelets with camping available, then switchbacks up through hillside meadows. Soon it drops over to the south side of Low Divide for the gradual hike up to High Pass, first through big meadows strewn with wildflowers, then along steep ridges covered with more wildflowers and spectacular views down Bogachiel Valley. Look for peeks of Mt. Olympus over the ridge to the south. 3.6 miles from the day’s beginning at Deer Lake, you’ll hit the junction to the Seven Lakes Basin, just beyond a large gravel and talus pit. Spot the rare magenta paintbrush in this area. If you've made a reservation to camp at Lunch Lake, descend into the lake basin and spend the day exploring; if you're continuing on, make sure to at least take a quick detour to look into the basin, or explore a little if time allows. You’ll find numerous brilliant blue lakes surrounded by lush meadows in a wide basin. Continuing on to High Pass, the views get greater and greater. At junction of High Pass and Bogachiel Valley, take a moment to relish the views in either direction from the saddle – stunning. Just beyond the junction, take a quarter-mile detour to bag Bogachiel Peak, a flat-topped mountain that used to hold a fire lookout tower, with 360º views of Bogachiel and Hoh Valleys, the Seven Lakes Basin and Mt. Olympus. Truly grand.


Heart Lake
Heart Lake
From High Pass, descend a ways through wide open meadows, keeping your eyes peeled for black bears gorging themselves on summer berries, then begin another steady climb for 2.1 miles along the backbone of High Divide, offering spectacular views in all directions – the Seven Lakes Basin behind and below to your left, the Hoh Valley, Blue Glacier and Mt. Olympus to your right, and the High Divide reaching far ahead. If the temptation calls, and you haven’t already lunched on Bogachiel Peak, find your perfect view, drop your pack, and just enjoy. Continue along the High Divide, past the unnamed ridge above Lake #8, to finally begin descending toward the junction with Heart Lake, a pretty green lake in a wide, meadowy basin. After a little more than a half-mile, several open campsites await around a small knob near Heart Lake, which presents the opportunity for a refreshing afternoon dip. A mile farther down the trail, several more forested campsites are available at Sol Duc Park, some near a pretty cascading waterfall on Bridge Creek. The former offers views, the latter nice shelter along rushing Bridge Creek. Whichever you’ve planned for the evening, drop the pack for the day, relax, and watch the sunset light up the steep slopes nearby.


Sol Duc Falls
Sol Duc Falls
After a good night's sleep, it’s time to pack up and head down. Descending 1.5 miles through Sol Duc Park, you'll pass a few meadowy campsites near Bridge Creek, down some forested switchbacks, then arrive at the Sol Duc River crossing. From this point, the route down Sol Duc Valley is a leisurely, 4 mile amble along soft, forested trail. The views are scarce, but occasionally you'll get glimpses of Sol Duc River. The miles will tick by quickly, past numerous river and hillside campsites, a junction with the Appleton Pass trail, then finally to Sol Duc Falls and the nearby shelter. Drop the pack for a few minutes for a snack and to enjoy views of the falls from various viewpoints. From here, the runout to your starting point is 3 miles along the forested Lover's Lane trail; or, if you parked at road's end and walked it from there, double back across the bridge to take the road's end trail 0.8 mile to the end of your journey.


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See a GPS track of this hike on Backpacker.com (coming soon!)

   
 





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